If you’ve never heard of this restaurant, just move to the next letter. In Jeremy Clarkson style, some say that this is the best restaurant in Sydney. Others say that it is one of the top 20 best in the world. All we know is that it is located in 569 Kent Street and you need to book months and months in advance. Although I’ve read some criticism (bread’s too hard – yes, it was a bit, not many wines by the half bottle etc etc), the dining experience (13-course degustation menu) was spread over three and a half hours and was easily one of the best meals I have ever eaten anywhere. From the amuse bouche of a consomme with ceps and shaved mushrooms which was so flavoursome to the last dessert, you could see that just about everything was carefully chosen and thought through. Of course, the highlight was the signature dish of confit of Petuna Tasmanian Ocean Trout with kombu, green apple, daikon and wasabi accompanied with a seasonal green salad which more than lived up to expectations. As you might expect, the menu leans heavily toward seafood (in amongst the current offerings are spanner crab done as a terrine and as part of a chawan-mushi [Japanese savoury egg-custard], Crystal Bay prawns, barramundi and Tasmanian Ocean Trout) but we also had roasted duck breast and some excellent veal as well. Dessert lovers are very well catered for with three courses, the first two being (in our opinion) fantastic – a green apple sorbet with a sauternes jelly separately paired with a chocolate and apple pudding with calvados and vanilla bean icecream followed by a lemon-scented floating island with vanilla bean crème anglaise. One should not ignore the book that is the wine list. We chose by the glass some of the wines selected by Tetsuya and labelled specially for the restaurant – starting with a glass of 1998 Petaluma ‘Croser’ Proprietors Reserve NV, we moved on to the 2007 Pierro Margaret River Chardonnay which was crystal clear in colour and flavour, not oaked, not aggressive, not green or too acidic, a great match for the seafood courses. The Bass Philip 2007 Pinot Noir has an excellent bouquet of cherry and plum jam which is lovely. Good match for the duck and the veal, I thought. No dessert wine – it would have been gilding the lily, I think, when the sauternes jelly was exquisite and the calvados just enough to balance out all the flavours. Japanese Green Tea (our choice) with petit fours almost seemed like an anti-climax. What a great repast.